Choosing Linen Tops - Pure Linen or a Blend?

For centuries, humans have used linen to make garments. A plant-derived fabric (made from flax), linen is well-known for its durability, breathability and moisture wicking properties, so it’s an amazing fabric to wear during spring and summer. In addition, it can feel soft and sumptuous, especially if your linen is a little worn in. Finally, linen is considered a top-tier fabric, with women the world over turning to linen during the warm months for an instantly stylish fashion choice.

Linen tops are probably the most popular linen garment worn by Australian women, with linen being a practical choice for both casual and workwear. You’ll find button front linen shirts, linen tunic tops, double layer linen tops, and short and long sleeve linen blouses in ample supply when shopping. But when it comes to choosing a linen top, you’ll be faced with the choice of pure linen or a linen blend, and it can be confusing to know what to choose when you don’t have the garment in your hands. So in this article, we’ll have a look at both options, and review the drawcards and drawbacks of each.

Pure linen tops

Pure linen pros: Otherwise known as 100% linen, pure linen tops will offer the best of linen’s natural qualities—namely, they will be breathable, thermoregulating, and durable (if care instructions are correctly followed). Flax, from which linen derives, is also a far more sustainable fabric choice than synthetic fabrics, and is even considered a more sustainable option than cotton, as there is less water and chemicals required in its production.

A pure linen top will soften the more you wear it, and if you wash and dry it carefully, it can last you for years.

Pure linen cons: There are some drawbacks when it comes to pure linen. These include:

• It can feel stiff upon the first few wears. You need to have patience to break it in!
• Linen is prone to creasing, so your neat linen top at the start of the day may appear crumpled by the end of the day. Most people appreciate this as a sign of the purity of their linen, however if you’re someone who can’t handle creases, you might be better off with a linen blend.
• Linen is likely to shrink, especially with the first wash. In fact, linen can shrink from between 4% and 10% on that initial wash! Why does this happen? When pure linen fabric is first created, the flax fibres stretch, then when they become wet, they return back to their unstretched, original state, which results in garment shrinkage. Hot temperatures during washing, drying and ironing are particular culprits when it comes to shrinking linen, so you should avoid the heat.

As linen is prone to shrinkage on that first wash, many choose to size up when buying a pure linen top.

Tops in linen blends

A linen blend combines pure linen with another fibre. Blending linen with other fibres means you can retain some of the great features of linen, but enhance the fabric so that it adds qualities such as extra stretch or softness. Common linen blends include:

• Viscose/rayon linen: This combination adds smoothness and drape, and creates more flowy tops.
• Linen polyester: This mix results in a durable and wrinkle-resistant linen blend. This means you don’t have to worry so much about creasing as you wear your linen top throughout the day.
• Linen spandex/lycra/elastane: When you need a little more stretch than pure linen offers, this blend adds the stretch you need. This works particularly well for fitted linen tops.
• Cotton linen: This combo retains those beautiful qualities of breathability and durability. As cotton and linen are both plant-derived, this combination gives you a sustainable linen top option that’s a little softer than pure linen.
• Bamboo linen: Again, bamboo is plant-derived, so this eco-friendly combination is great. The bamboo also adds silkiness to the linen blend, and feels softer than 100% linen.
• Silk linen: This is a luxurious, and usually pricey, linen blend. It is lightweight and has a deluxe sheen. Again, using non-synthetics in this blend means that the garment is breathable. (It needs special care when washing.)
• Linen metallic: When you want your linen to have a little more pizzazz, then blend it with a metallic thread! This mix gives your linen top a bit of a shimmery appearance, and it is well suited to evening wear.
• Linen Tencel: Combining linen with Tencel ™ offers a smooth and soft finish to a linen top.

Linen blend pros: A major drawcard of a linen blend is that it is much less likely to crease the way pure linen is known to. So if you don’t like wrinkles or ironing, then a blend is the best option for you.

Linen blend cons: When it comes to the drawbacks of linen blends, it really depends on what the linen is blended with. Usually the main drawback of linen mixed with synthetic fibres is that it becomes a little less breathable, and may hold moisture, which is not ideal when you perspire. Additionally, some people experience an itchy sensation when wearing certain synthetic fabrics, which is unlikely to occur when wearing pure linen. If this is you, then stick with either pure linen, or opt for linen blended with cotton, silk, bamboo or Tencel ™.

The differences in linen weaves

Linen, whether it be pure or a blend, can be woven into a variety of fabrics of different thickness, and with different qualities. These will suit certain garments better than others. When it comes to pure linen, the linen will vary depending on where it’s sourced, and the thickness of the weave, with some linen tops being made in dense, tight linen weaves, and others, in looser weaves that result in a more transparent linen. So even though linen may be pure, there is a lot of variability in fabric density and texture.

For linen blends, the density of the linen will vary according to what the linen is mixed with. Linen chambray, for example, is a medium-weight linen with a denim-like look. It suits heavier, linen shirts. Linen shirting, on the other hand, is a great option for soft, lightweight blouses and shirts, and will appear slightly transparent. Stretch linen (blended with spandex) works for tailored tops, especially those fitted close to the body, and linen scrim is bouncy and sheer, so is optimal for floaty blouses.

How to choose the right linen top?

When choosing linen tops online, read the fabrication of the garment, the care instructions, and look at how the garment drapes in the photos. Whilst this information won’t tell you everything (you won’t know how the top feels, for example), it will give you a good idea of what to expect when your linen top arrives.

Additionally, consider what you want in a garment, and read all the details about the linen top you’re considering, so you know it’s likely to meet your requirements. Considerations include the following:

You want a sustainable linen: If this is you, then opt for pure linen or linen combined with sustainably sourced and manufactured, plant-derived fibres, like cotton or bamboo.

You want minimal itch: Try linen/synthetic blends on in a store if you can, and if you feel even the slightest prickly feeling, then avoid ordering those online and instead, opt for 100% linen.

You want the softest linen from the get go: Unless you source a particularly lightweight, loosely woven pure linen, then it likely won’t feel super soft on first wear. Pure linen takes time to break in. So, opt for a linen top blended with viscose/rayon, bamboo, or silk instead.

You hate creases: If wrinkles are your nemesis, then avoid pure linen and choose a blend instead, such as linen/viscose, linen/polyester, or linen/elastane.

You love linen’s creases: Then it’s pure linen all the way!

You don’t tend to follow care instructions: Then certainly avoid pure linen, as you’ll likely shrink it. Opt instead for linen combined with a synthetic, but still avoid washing in hot water or using a high setting in the clothes dryer. (You can also buy pure linen a size up, and hot that if you shrink it, it will fit well. This is usually a good option for looser fit garments.)

How to care for pure linen tops:

1. Wash gently: Hand washing is a good option when washing linen, but if using the machine, ensure you stick to a cold or lukewarm, gentle cycle.
2. Opt for mild washing liquid: Bleaches and harsh detergents can weaken linen, so use a gentle wash liquid.
3. Don’t twist your linen: Manipulating linen does it no favours, so avoid wringing your linen after washing it. Give it a gentle squeeze instead, then air dry.
4. Avoid the dryer: Drying linen in the clothes dryer can damage its fibres, especially if it’s pure linen. Preferably, air dry your linen tops in the shade.
5. Iron while moist: If you want to iron your linen top, do it while the garment is still damp, or else, use a steam setting. But remember, don’t go too hot!
6. Store carefully: Pure linen can succumb to mildew if it’s put away when damp. So make sure it is properly dry before you store it. (Not such a problem with linen/synthetic blends.)

When it comes to caring for linen blends, the same rules pretty much apply, although a blend may be a little more forgiving if you neglect the rules.

Linen tops at Femme Connection

No matter whether you choose a pure linen top, or a blend, you’ll receive a measure of breathability, durability and comfort, especially in the warm months. Investing in a linen top or two is a wise idea, as you can wear linen to work, out to brunch, or even, when doing the gardening! It’s so versatile, and washes well if care instructions are adhered to. 

Our linen top range includes blouses, shirts, tunics, short sleeved tops and more. Some of our linen tops are made in Italy using pure linen, and others are a linen-blend.

Want more linen? Explore our Luxe Linen collection for linen dresses, tunics, pants and more.