We see a lot of linen clothing in stores these days, and it’s surprising that a fabric that is so ‘on-trend’ is actually one that has been popular for thousands of years! People have known about linen’s wonders for centuries upon centuries, and though when people first started wearing linen they didn’t have a lot of other alternative fabrics to choose from, it’s funny how linen still remains a go-to fabric, as its qualities of breathability and comfort have not gone anywhere.
Let’s have a look at linen through history, and in particular, linen tops in women’s fashion.
Linen Clothing - The Early Days
Linen is derived from the flax plant, which is a crop that grows well in cool climates. Historians tell us that linen’s use dates back to ancient civilizations, with it even being found in prehistoric caves. Linen became an important textile in Anicient Egypt, at approximately 4,000 BCE. Linen was a durable fabric, and durability is important given that ancient people didn’t own a lot of clothes. Linen fabric is also breathable and moisture wicking, which was no doubt a useful attribute for ancient societies, as people would work in their clothes, so they needed to be comfortable, especially in hotter climates.
Linen was not only the clothing of the everyday people, but was also prized amongst the elite, with higher quality, finer linens reserved for the wealthy. (Thankfully these days, good quality and comfortable linen is accessible on meagre budgets!)
Linen fabric was used to fashion wraps and tunics, which were precursors of our dresses and tops of today. The Ancient Greeks and Romans used linen to make their chiton and stola dresses, which eventually became separates—tops and skirts.
Linen Tops - The Beginnings
During the Middle Ages and the Renaissance periods, people wore linen undergarments beneath their dresses, similar to a shift dress or chemise. These undergarments were intended to be softer against the skin than the outergarments, and would sometimes be embroidered. As time went on, conventions of the time allowed these undergarments to be visible, and the neckline and sleeves would appear.
It wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that linen tops became a principal part of a woman’s wardrobe. Working class women especially wore linen shirts as they were a suitable and practical garment for wearing during hard work, but were affordable enough that anyone could access them. As time went on, bodices and blouses were made from linen, and the more embroidered they were, the more they were a sign of higher social and economic status.
20th Century Linen Tops
Women’s clothing went through many changes over the 20th Century, but an obvious change was that clothing for women became less restrictive and more comfortable. In the 1920s, linen worked in well with the fashion of the time. Tops and dresses were in simple designs that were boxy and loose fitting and easy to move in, and linen was the perfect fabric for them.
In the 1940s, during the 2nd world war, rationing meant that linen was an affordable and practical fabric to manufacture clothing in. Women’s shirts and blouses were often made out of linen, as it was durable and easy to work in.
In the 1950s, linen blouses were more structured, and were often cinched at the waist. Then in the 1960s, linen tops again became looser, in line with the free-spirited youth movement of the time. Embroidery was popular in the 1960s and into the 1970s, and linen tops had a distinctly bohemian look to them. Additional embellishments were added to linen tops, such as fringes, shells, beads and so on, and the patterns and colours used in the tops became more adventurous.
When the 1980s and 90s arrived, designs went more minimal, and linen tops relaxed into a format that remains today—an elegant top, usually in a either a loose-fitting or simply structured style, that oozes sophistication. Professional women were drawn towards linen’s comfortable yet elegant style for work tops, and yet at the same time, linen tops became a popular casual option.
The Eco-Friendly Credentials of Linen
Linen’s high status is not only because of its elegant and simple look and its comfortable wearability, but also because it is considered a relatively sustainable fabric. There’s minimal water and pesticides required to grow flax, and there is minimal waste involved in linen’s production, as any bi-products can be used for other purposes. Add to that, linen is bio-degradable and naturally breaks down over time, with pure linen resulting in zero microplastics in the environment. Finally, linen lasts a long time, so you shouldn’t need to replace a linen top very often (your linen top should give you years of wear with the proper care). For these reasons, linen is an esteemed, eco-friendly fabric.
Linen Dyeing
Linen easily takes on dye, which is yet another reason why linen has remained a popular fabric option in women’s fashion. In early times, natural dyes were used for linen, and included dyes derived from insects, minerals and plants. These natural dyes resulted in earthy coloursr, with browns, reds and yellows being prominent. Later in the Renaissance and Victorian eras, other colours became popular in linen, with lavender, light blue and pastel pink showing the romantic vibe of the time. The 20th Century brought in synthetic dyes, so the colour spectrum was vastly broadened. The most obvious example of more colourful linen tops using synthetic dyes were the bold patterns of 1960s and 1970s fashion, although natural dyes were still used then, especially for tie-dye.
These days, linen tops dyed with synthetic dyes and natural dues are now available, however natural dyes are favoured by those wanting to reduce their environmental footprint. The resulting trending linen colours are grey, navy, beige, and olive green.
Contemporary Linen Top Styles and Their Lineage
Eyeing off a linen top and wondering what the inspiration for the design was? It might come from fashion history! Let’s look at the popular linen tops you still see in fashion stores today and how they resemble linen tops of times past.
Popular linen tops today include:
-
Peasant Blouses: Inspired by historical chemises, these linen tops feature billowy sleeves, gathered necklines, and often include intricate embroidery.
-
Oversized, Boxy Linen Tops: Reflecting both the 1920s flapper era as well as the minimalist trends of the 1990s, these tops emphasise comfort and simplicity.
-
Button-Down linen shirts: These tops are quite similar to the structured shirts that appeared in the 1940s and 1950s. They feature clean lines and a tailored fit.
-
Long Linen Tunic Tops: These tops echo the boho styles popular in the 1960s and 1970s. The retro versions often featured embroidery and tassels, whereas the modern tunic tops feature cleaner lines, and are a little less ‘boho’. They can be worn in a wide variety of settings, including the workplace.
The Eternal Appeal of Linen Tops
With linen tops being both practical, elegant and stylish, it’s a given that they will remain popular for as long as humans can continue to cultivate flax. For hot weather, linen is a particularly useful fabric, being lightweight, breathable and moisture wicking. As our climate changes, linen will likely be a fabric we will favour for centuries to come. In addition to those attributes, linen is comfortable to wear, and indeed the more you wear a linen top, the softer it becomes. So it’s a no-brainer that linen has play a significant role in women’s fashion for thousands of years, and will continue to be a timeless and stylish choice for women into the future.
Get your linen tops at Femme Connection. We also offer a variety of women’s tops in a range of fabrics in our casual tops, t-shirts and shirts and blouses collections.