The History and Evolution of Midi Dresses
A dress so many Australian women seem drawn to is the midi dress. When we pull a midi dress from our wardrobe, we know we have an instantly stylish and easy-to-wear garment in our hands. So it’s hard to imagine how women once didn’t have access to this great length of dress.
Whilst the midi length dress is ubiquitous today, the midi length of dress only took form in the 1920s, as cultural and societal shifts led to shorter, more practical dress styles that enabled women to get things done (whilst still looking lovely in a frock). From Coco Chanel’s iconic 1926 little black dress in midi-length, to Dior’s midi-length post-WWII figure-shaping dress styles, and the boho free-spirited bohemian vibes of the 1970s, midi dresses may have evolved with every passing decade, but the length has remained popular.
As each new era came and went, the midi dress held its position as a versatile and stylish dress style. Let’s take a peek into the past to get a sense of how the midi dress evolved through the eras, and understand why this style is still beloved today.
Midi dresses through the decades
Midi dresses are so commonplace now that it would be easy to think they’d always been around. But midi length dresses didn’t really appear on the fashion scene until approximately the 1920s, when the “new woman” trend saw women opting for short and straight dresses that were easy to pull over the head. These dresses were sewn using lighter fabrics than had previously been used for dresses, and they had more of a focus on comfort and practicality than dresses that came prior. This era even had women wearing sleeveless dresses for the first time.
The “New Woman” was a social concept popular in the media between 1890 and 1920. Whereas previously women were characterised as meek, mild and reliant on men, the new woman was characterised as physically capable, self-sufficient and with sharp intellect. The ideal of the new women was that women were capable of working alongside men as equals, hence the need for practical attire like shorter, more sensible length dresses they could work in. Women even came to start wearing trousers for the first time.
The little black dress (LBD)
In October 1926, a picture of a short black dress appeared in American Vogue. Designed by Coco Chanel, this simple, straight dress fell beneath the knee, near to calf length (the length we now know as a midi length). It featured a few diagonal lines, and looked both chic and uncomplicated. It was intended to offer a utilitarian dress for women of all classes, and Vogue likened the dress to the Model T Ford motor vehicle (the car for all classes).
Whether Vogue set the ball rolling, or they simply made a very accurate prediction, but they declared that the little black dress would grow in popularity to be “a sort of uniform for all women of taste”, and they were largely correct. We are now well familiar with the powers of the LBD. We are also aware of the powers of the midi length dress, no matter the colour or print.
The midi dress from the 1920s until today
Midi length dresses continued to be chosen by women through the 1920s and 1930s, including during the Great Depression, when women had less money to spend on fabric, hence they sewed shorter dresses. In addition, during the second world war, women opted for shorter dresses due to their practicality, as they needed to easily work whilst wearing a dress. Indeed women’s military uniforms at the time tended towards a practical, midi length, as it allowed women to perform tasks whilst still appearing modestly and neatly dressed.
Post WWII, in the 1950s, fashion designer Christian Dior gained influence over women’s fashion, introducing dresses that emphasised the hourglass silhouette, and often featured tapered-in waists with voluminous skirts. Funnily enough, these dresses mostly fell to midi length, as this length continued to be a modest-yet-chic fashion choice.
Chanel also made a reappearance in the mid-1950s, again offering dresses with hemlines reaching to mid-calf. It wasn’t until the 1960s that fashion saw hemlines climbing higher and mini skirts became a thing, but by then, the midi dress had become a staple in women’s fashion which would never go away.
The popularity of midi dresses has waxed and waned over subsequent decades, however from the 1970s onwards, it became less important for women to adhere to a prescribed length of skirt or dress. Instead, it became the norm to choose a dress or skirt length in the style you favoured or that best suited your frame, rather than being a slave to the popular hemlines of the day. Nowadays, our wardrobes often include a mix of short, knee length, midi length and maxi length dresses, and we choose according to season and occasion. Midi length dresses and midi skirts are a particular favourite amongst women in Australia, as they’re suitable for a range of settings, and offer a comfortable and practical length that allows for airflow, which is vital in our climate.
Midi dresses today
In past eras, midi dresses leaned towards a particular style for a period of time, and then the fashions changed. In the 1920s, they featured more of a straight cut, and hugged the figure around the hips. In the 1940s, midi dresses tapered in at the waist, and featured flared, A-line skirts. In the 1950s, skirts flared to a new level, or alternatively, went in the pencil skirt direction, with the skirt tapering in around the knees or below.
These days, you can take your pick of any midi dress style, because of availability. You can get floral midi dresses in lightweight, sheer fabrics with loose structure, that are perfect for spring and summer events. You can also get figure-hugging, embellished dresses that fall to midi length, that are perfect for evening occasions. There are midi dresses that are suitable to wear to the office, and casual midi dresses in an array of comfortable fabrics like jersey, cotton, linen and viscose, that you can wear for weekend outings.
Classic midi dress styles to seek out
Midi dress styles have evolved through the decades, with each style reflecting the trends, ideals, and design innovations of its era. Here are some iconic styles that will work well in a contemporary wardrobe.
The 1950s Tea-Length Dress
Characteristics: Tea length is so close to midi length, that it’s pretty much the same thing. A tea-length dress probably says more about the other aspects of this quintessentially 1950s dress style. These dresses are cinched at the waist and feature a flared, A-line skirt. They’re often made using light fabrics and in classic 1950 prints like gingham, polka dots and florals.
We all know these dresses from images we’ve seen of idealised domestic life in the 1950s. The second world war was over, and society was focussed more on women returning to the home, rather than helping on the war front. Whilst still a practical dress, the tea dress is decidedly feminine and elegant. Actresses like Audrey Hepburn and Doris Day were often seen rocking tea dresses. Today, this style of dress remains a go-to for parties and formal occasions, and exudes a retro charm.
The Empire Waist Midi Dress
Characteristics: This dress has a waistline that tapers in just below the bust. The rest of the dress loosely falls to the midi-length hem. Often embellishments are added to this dress style to accentuate the romance and femininity, and you will see things like lace sleeves and hems.
Whilst an empire waist is best known as a feature of regency-era fashion (from 1811-1820), it became popular again and had a revival in the 1960s and 70s. In particular, boho styles of midi dress often feature an empire waist.
The Shift Midi Dress (1960s)
Characteristics: A shift dress is a straight style that hangs loosely and doesn’t cling closely to the figure. In the 1960s, whilst mini dresses became in vogue, the shift midi dress was also popular, and less of a shock to the system for a lot of wearers.
This style of midi dress was seen on the likes of Jacqueline Kennedy and british actress, Twiggy, as well as a host of other celebrities of the era. The shift midi is remembered for its comfortable fit, making it possible to wear to both parties and casual events.
The Wrap Midi Dress
Midi dresses in a wrap style feature a front closure that wraps around the figure and either ties at the waist or appears to. This style often has an A-line skirt and deep V-neckline. Wrap dresses are known for their flattering shape that accentuates the figure, whilst being comfortable to wear (you only wrap them as far as they remain comfortable).
The wrap midi dress style gained popularity in the 1970s after being introduced by Belgian fashion designer, Diane von Furstenberg. She introduced the knitted jersey “wrap dress” in 1974, and after its launch, it sold 25,000 dresses per week, and by 1976, she’d sold one million of these popular dresses!
Wrap midi dresses mix elegance with comfort, so these dresses can be worn in professional and casual settings alike. Given that pretty much any body type can wear a wrap midi dress, these dresses remain a popular option today.
The Puff Sleeve Midi Dress of the 80s
Characteristics: In the 1980s, women loved a puffed sleeve, and mixed with bold colours and patterns, the puff sleeve midi dress style brought with it a sense of drama and flair.
Joan Collins was your classic fashion icon of the 80s, and when she wasn’t wearing oversized shoulder pads, she was wearing puffed sleeves. Other elements of these vintage midi dresses from the 80s are a cinched waist and glamorous embellishments. These styles of dresses have been toned down a little, but you can still find puff sleeve midi dresses with hints of this power dressing era. It might be a midi-length shirt dress with a slight puff to the sleeve or something a little more frilly and feminine, but you’ll be surprised by how many options there are online.
Midi dress styling tips
Read on to find out how to avoid some common challenges that come with wearing this dress length:
- Lengthen those legs: There’s the risk with a midi dress that it can shorten your overall look, as the dress’s hemline sits at the widest part of your lower leg (the calf). To avoid this dress making your legs look short, opt for some heels or nude-toned shoes that will help make your legs look longer.
- Smaller Frames: If your frame is on the petite side, a midi length dress can appear overwhelming. If this is you, opt for wrap dresses, or tailored styles that accentuate the waist. You can always add a belt for definition. Also look out for midi dresses in lightweight fabrics, as a heavy duty fabric may swamp you.
- Balancing Proportions: If your midi dress is straight, it can make your proportions look a little funny. Adding a belt or a cropped jacket can help to define the waist. Additionally, fitted midi dresses or those with a voluminous skirt can deliver balance.
- Dressing Your Midi Dress Up: If you’re heading to a fancy occasion, opt for midi dresses in deluxe fabrics like sumptuous satin or with sequin embellishments. Adding jewellery also can lift your look and turn it from casual wear to evening. And of course, sleek high heels will complete the job of dressing up your outfit.
Looking for midi dresses? Femme Connection has plenty! Our range includes options for both casual and evening dressing. We also sell midi skirts!